Around the globe on two wheels
Worldwide motorcycle trek takes Irish biker through valley
Forget about those legendary New Zealanders with a world-wide reputation for hospitality. A motorcycle rider from Ireland who is on a one-man quest to traverse the world said Maritimers are the most hospitable people he has ever met in his life.
"The friendliness of Maritime Canada is incredible. Everyone says New Zealand is very friendly but so far the Maritimers have them beat. New Zealand has a great reputation for being friendly and they're okay, but here I am just stunned by the hospitality," Paddy Tyson remarked on his experiences in Atlantic Canada.
Tyson, who hails from County Fermanagh, the westernmost of the six counties that form Northern Ireland, had already toured extensively throughout northern Europe before starting his personal quest of seeing the world on two wheels in Australia, New Zealand and the Philippines. After spending a year on the road in the southwest Pacific paradise, he and his trusty Aprilia 650, a clone of the popular BMW 650 dual-purpose machine, are now travelling through North, Central and South America. He traveled Highway 105 through the St. John River Valley last week.
The unique-to-Canada motorcycle, emblazoned with a large Ireland sticker, attracts attention almost everywhere, Fellow motorcyclists usually ask what kind of machine Tyson is riding, while the yellow Great Britain registration plate on the back of the bike is a magnet for friendly residents to offer directions, advice or that always welcome cup of tea.
"Unfortunately I have to do this sectionally due to financial reasons, although this is going to be a big section. Depending on how I feel at the bottom of Argentina. I may come to Buenos Aries and ship to Cape Town (South Africa) and continue touring through Africa."
The adventurer and his motorcycle arrived in Halifax in June. But before he could start his roundabout tour of the country he had to untangle his motorcycle from a Canadian bureaucratic web.
"Certain branches of your border security agency don't speak to other branches of your border security agency. I got to know the ones at Halifax very well because I arrived at 10 past nine every morning and stayed until five in the evening."
Tyson explained it took five days to clear customs. Some officials felt his bike must have a Canadian registration, while it took two days to get the bike out of quarantine while it was inspected for possible diseased soil. With his transportation finally declared fit to travel in Canada, his adventure began.
"This isn't a race for me to get to one place fast. I am taking my time to see the country and meet the people."
With a $50 a day budget, Tyson tries to wild camp as much as possible to save money. But friendly Maritimers have offered him lodging in their homes for the last eight days, keeping the tent packed on his bike.
"I'm doing very well… People are inviting me into their homes and are really interested in my travels. There are two parts to all travelling. There is the incredible scenery, but you skirt the surface and can never meet a single person. That is not the travel experience."
So far Tyson's impression of Canada includes "trees, trees, trees and more trees", and his camera is constantly ready for wildlife snapshots.
"I saw my first moose in Cape Breton, and slowed down to take photos. I only heard afterward that moose can turn on you. In my naïveté I was determined to get the photo."
Tyson said Canadian roads are very different because "you don't have any corners" compared to European roads. Frost heave damage is also a new concept for the motorcyclist.
"Some of your roads are badly broke up. I am not used to seeing that."
New Brunswick's hot and humid July days were uncomfortable for the adventure tourer, but he said the real heat was in Australia where searing temperatures ruined photographic film. He is not looking forward to his ride through infamous Death Valley in the southern US.
"I am not great in the heat, being a Celt. I do prefer the cold," he stated.
Saddlebags, a tank bag, and a top box onboard the Aprilia carry Tyson's clothing, his sleeping bag and tent, kitchen and food, spare parts and tools. Auxiliary gas tanks mounted on both sides of the bike provide a 600 kilometre range. Tyson does not own a GPS device. He relies on maps and people.
The motorcyclist is not sure how long his northern trek through Canada will last. He can renew his three-month visa for one month at a time. But once he enters Alaska, he has to get through British Columbia and back into the United States as quickly as possible because of American visa requirements.
After touring the US for up to six months he will trek though Central and South America, detouring past some countries because of political unrest or safety issues, before shipping the bike to Cape Town, South Africa, or India via Australia again. When Tyson finally arrives home he expects his Aprilia will be a throw-away bike.
"I expect it will be completely destroyed. It has to be expendable or I can't do the journey."
The trek through Canada is appropriate considering this country is where Tyson first was bitten by the travel bug. As a six-year-old he accompanied his mother and older sister on a Greyhound bus tour of North America. This latest epic is being recorded through photos and an ongoing diary that are shared with family and friends via the Internet, but Tyson said his journey was a personal quest.
"Everyone and their granny is travelling around the world and writing books about their travels. I don't expect I will."
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