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ST. JOHN'S, N.L. - Throngs of Newfoundlanders and Labradorians will once again venture out to sea Wednesday to reel in cod for the kitchen table, despite concerns that stock levels are too fragile to sustain the largely self-regulated, recreational fishery.

Since 2006, people in the province have been allowed to fish inshore for northern cod without a licence or tags for several weeks. For many, it's become a cherished summer ritual that provides a tangible link with a centuries-old way of life.

Last month, federal Fisheries Minister Loyola Hearn announced the resumption of the recreational fishery, along with a 30 per cent increase to the small-scale commercial fishery.

Hearn called it a cautious approach, saying Newfoundlanders have complied with the rules and that stock levels have grown slightly in the last two years.

But some scientists and environmental groups say there is little wisdom behind reopening the cod fishery just as the species is showing signs of rebounding from its collapse more than 15 years ago.

"I question sometimes the strength and the commitment of various levels of government to rebuilding the stocks," said George Rose, chairman of fisheries conservation at Memorial University in St. John's.

Rose said he agrees there are more cod than in the past, but that's because they are a species that tend to gather in clusters in some bays while avoiding other bodies of water.

"Nobody jumps up and down and says, 'Here's a big bay where there's no fish at all,"' he said.

Rose said he's not opposed to the concept of a recreational fishery, but the amount of fish being caught is too high.

Conservation concerns were renewed earlier this month when it was revealed that the federal Fisheries Department had two widely divergent estimates of the amount of cod taken during last year's recreational fishery.

According to one federal estimate, 540 tonnes of cod were caught. But a subsequent phone survey conducted externally for the department found that nearly five times that amount was landed.

"It tells me that management is a bit haphazard," said Robert Rangeley, vice-president for the Atlantic division of World Wildlife Fund.

During the recreational fishery, also known as the food fishery, there is a daily bag limit of five fish per person, or 15 fish onboard boats with three or more people.

Hearn said there will be increased monitoring this year to ensure compliance with the rules. He has floated the notion of bringing back licensing and tags for future recreational fisheries to keep better track of the fish that are caught.

"I guarantee it certainly wouldn't be anything that will keep the oldest, the youngest, or anybody in between from getting on the water," he said last week.

Larry Tremblett, a commercial fisherman in Bonavista, N.L., said some form of licensing or tagging should be implemented because some flagrantly abuse the rules.

"It's ridiculous what goes on," Tremblett said. "Not everybody, but you got certain ones ... they're not out there just for a bit of feast to eat."

Still, some argue that licences and tags are unnecessary.

"I really don't know what the problem is," said Gary Gale, a recreational fisherman in Hampden, N.L. "If it's not broke, don't fix it."

For several years until 2003, people in Newfoundland and Labrador had to obtain licences and tags to fish cod recreationally. That prompted complaints because people in other provinces weren't subject to that regulation.

While it's true the recreational cod fishery is more wide open in the Maritimes, the participation rate in that region is also much smaller than it is in Newfoundland, where tens of thousands of people take to the water every year.

In Newfoundland, the highly anticipated event appears to have as much to do with culture as it does with food.

The recreational fishery lasts until Aug. 12 and will open for another week Sept. 27.